It is easy to understand why Montefalco is referred to as 'Umbria's Balcony', a hill town
that looks out over the flat plain below.
The five gates of the town each open to a street that takes you to the
centre of town, rather like the arms of a star, to
the main piazza at the highest point of Montefalco.
We had friends visiting and Montefalco was a perfect day trip. We
entered through the portal that opened on to the Corso Mameli where the
first stop was to shop for linens at Pardi. Linen and cotton textiles are famous
in this area of Umbria, and the Pardi family has it's looms here.
( I must say that there is a small shop in Panicale that also carries Pardi
products).
Walking up to town we make a few stops along the way after shopping
for a textiles. James is here to buy a skin product called 'Oro di Spello'.
He finds the shop along this street. Outside people are going along with their daily routines.
We stop at a bar for coffee. We notice that we are the only 'English speakers', although we
always do our best to speak Italian. When tourists visit this area of Umbria
they go directly to Assisi and miss the smaller towns of Spello, Bevagna and
Montefalco.
Montefalco is tranquil, but it has not always been this way. In 1249 the town
was sacked by Frederick II, and in 1527 sacked again by the troops
of Orazio Baglioni. It is said that those who survived Baglioni were later
succumbed by the Plague .
Each time, the town was rebuilt, and today we see a thriving and lovely
hill town that is particular to Umbria.
that looks out over the flat plain below.
The five gates of the town each open to a street that takes you to the
centre of town, rather like the arms of a star, to
the main piazza at the highest point of Montefalco.
We had friends visiting and Montefalco was a perfect day trip. We
entered through the portal that opened on to the Corso Mameli where the
first stop was to shop for linens at Pardi. Linen and cotton textiles are famous
in this area of Umbria, and the Pardi family has it's looms here.
( I must say that there is a small shop in Panicale that also carries Pardi
products).
Walking up to town we make a few stops along the way after shopping
for a textiles. James is here to buy a skin product called 'Oro di Spello'.
He finds the shop along this street. Outside people are going along with their daily routines.
We stop at a bar for coffee. We notice that we are the only 'English speakers', although we
always do our best to speak Italian. When tourists visit this area of Umbria
they go directly to Assisi and miss the smaller towns of Spello, Bevagna and
Montefalco.
Montefalco is tranquil, but it has not always been this way. In 1249 the town
was sacked by Frederick II, and in 1527 sacked again by the troops
of Orazio Baglioni. It is said that those who survived Baglioni were later
succumbed by the Plague .
Each time, the town was rebuilt, and today we see a thriving and lovely
hill town that is particular to Umbria.
BENOZZO GOZZOLI'S
LIFE OF ST. FRANCIS
In 1450 the Florentine artist, Benozzo Gozzoli was called to Montefalco
to paint what would be his first large scale independent commission at
the church of San Francesco.
Gozzoli had been a student and assistant of Fra Angelico and during that time
he worked beside Fra Angelico in painting the frescos in the cells at monastery of San Marco
in Florence. Gozzoli credits his skill at fresco painting from the teaching of Frcreda Angelico.
While in Florence, Gozzoli also had the opportunity to work with
Lorenzo Ghiberti on the Gates Of Paradise on the door to the Baptistry. He
credits Ghiberti with passing on to him the art of the narrative.
So, here is Benozzo Gozzoli in Montefalco to tell the story of the life of St. Francis of Assisi.
to paint what would be his first large scale independent commission at
the church of San Francesco.
Gozzoli had been a student and assistant of Fra Angelico and during that time
he worked beside Fra Angelico in painting the frescos in the cells at monastery of San Marco
in Florence. Gozzoli credits his skill at fresco painting from the teaching of Frcreda Angelico.
While in Florence, Gozzoli also had the opportunity to work with
Lorenzo Ghiberti on the Gates Of Paradise on the door to the Baptistry. He
credits Ghiberti with passing on to him the art of the narrative.
So, here is Benozzo Gozzoli in Montefalco to tell the story of the life of St. Francis of Assisi.
Saint Francis was born into a wealthy family, he decides he must give that
up for a simple life property and devotion. Gozzoli tells us this story in beautifully depicted
frescos.
up for a simple life property and devotion. Gozzoli tells us this story in beautifully depicted
frescos.
PERUGINO
At the back of the church is a fresco by Umbrian painter,
Pietro Perugino.
Perugino was born in Città della Pieve, although his parents were from Panicale.
Note the Umbrian landscape Perugino has painted behind the Nativity.
In the distance is Lake Trasimeno with the mountains at its shore.
Perugino's landscape inspired James to use a similar view of
Lake Trasimeno in his painting of tulips that he has just started.
A week or so later, more tulips with an Umbrian landscape washed in, soon to be
painted.
Still Life with Tulips, Lake Trasimeno ( in- progress)
James Aponovich
oil on canvas, 14" x 14"
TIME FOR LUNCH
Usually when we come to Montefalco we have lunch in the
piazza at L'Alchemista, but it was
Tuesday, so guess what...they are closed on Tuesdays.
So, James asked a couple of men walking by and they suggested Olevm.
This is a small, family run trattoria on the Corso Mameli.
I did not take any pictures of our lunch, but the food was superb and presented beautifully.
The pear and pecorino salad was outstanding with mandolin cut pears and rolled
into cornucopia shapes stacked into a spiral with shaved pecorino. The pasta with carciofi was simple
yet exquisite.
We we brought a plate of toasted bread with the families own olive oil
which Daniela , one of the owners, served with great pride.
Although Montefalco is known for it's Sagrantino wine, at lunch we had
house white wine....vino della casa, bianco.
James purchased a Sagrantino Passito before we left town, a
'contemplative wine' meant for sipping after a meal.
piazza at L'Alchemista, but it was
Tuesday, so guess what...they are closed on Tuesdays.
So, James asked a couple of men walking by and they suggested Olevm.
This is a small, family run trattoria on the Corso Mameli.
I did not take any pictures of our lunch, but the food was superb and presented beautifully.
The pear and pecorino salad was outstanding with mandolin cut pears and rolled
into cornucopia shapes stacked into a spiral with shaved pecorino. The pasta with carciofi was simple
yet exquisite.
We we brought a plate of toasted bread with the families own olive oil
which Daniela , one of the owners, served with great pride.
Although Montefalco is known for it's Sagrantino wine, at lunch we had
house white wine....vino della casa, bianco.
James purchased a Sagrantino Passito before we left town, a
'contemplative wine' meant for sipping after a meal.
Daniela's olive oil is exceptional.
A nice touch, Still Life with Fruit and Poppies!
A decorative detail from the fresco by Pietro Perugino.
Montefalco is a town not to be missed!
For more on this visit to Montefalco go to a new blog post
by James at
www.paintinginpanicale.blogspot.com
Montefalco is a town not to be missed!
For more on this visit to Montefalco go to a new blog post
by James at
www.paintinginpanicale.blogspot.com
